Bye Bye Pierpaolo

 Photos c/o Fashionista & Pinterest

It seems like the great fashion head are all bidding adieu this season. Dries Van Noten, Alessandro Michele, and now Pierpaolo Piccioli. In a way it feels frightening, kind of like a relative and their spouse breaking up and you’re not sure when you’re going to see your favorite cousins on holiday. On the other hand, how exciting to see what fresh (or not) new blood is coming in to either elevate or ruin the work of the genius before. For me, I never really had an affection for Valentino. I am not crazy about feathers and was rather turned off by the whole pink era, but what I did admire was Pierpaolo himself. I would stalk his insta and marvel at how much of a family man he was, not just to his own wife and three children but to his atelier. He was what I felt was a lost genuine creator who, yes, loved and dedicated himself to his work but his relationships, to me, always seemed to be a priority. It’s a good example of not swooning over the art itself but the artist themselves. Pierpaolo started at Valentino in 1999 as an accessories director alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri and then in 2008 were named co-directors of the brand before Picciolo became sole creative director in 2008 when Chiuri went to Dior. Which is another story, I’m not mentally prepared to speak on at the moment. Lots of thoughts, lots of thoughts…However, it’s needless to say how personable and adored Piccioli was by all whom he dressed and made feel even for a day, like the most beautiful woman in the room. I own some vintage Valentino, not designed by Pierpaolo of course, and although I’m not a self-proclaimed fan of his, I would be honored to own something of his in the future.

Valentino F/W RTW Collection Images c/o Pinterest

“Not all stories have a beginning or an end, some live a kind of eternal present that shines so bright that it won’t produce any shadows,” said Piccioli in a statement. “I’ve been in this company for 25 years, and for 25 years I’ve existed and I’ve lived with the people who have woven the weaves of this beautiful story that is mine and ours… Thanks to Mr Valentino and [Valentino co-founder] Giancarlo Giammetti who have blessed me with their trust, thanks to every single person who made this possible in one way or another. It was a privilege and an honour to share my journey, and my dreams, with you.”

Valentino Fall 2022 Images c/o Pinteres

Vogue magazine quotes Piccioli in a farewell statement where his humility and appreciation is reflected with such eloquent wording that perfectly encapsulates his feeling but is also a testament to his own love and appreciation for the opportunity, he had to express his image, creativity and emotion during his tenure at Valentino. If I had to make some observations and praises of my own in regard to this designer one that would come to mind was his commitment to diversity. It’s not easy in today’s age to display this kind of gender, racial and bodily diversity without it seeming performative. Just another box to be checked so that so-called Gen Z or oat milk critics can give their stamp of approval. Piccioli was dedicated to showcasing all ranges of diversity and was committed to empowering and representing all women in a way that was heartfelt and could be internalized by women watching his shows and window-shopping his garments in store windows. For me personally, the hyperfeminine stance taken by Piccioli is great on the one hand to bring back the return of the woman who is fearless to display her outlandish feminity. I can respect that in choice, however it’s not my style by any means. Yet, I’m sure if I had the change to don one of these garments, surely, my life and view on what it is to be a woman could be drastically altered. I am more enamored with other pieces from Piccioli that seem to oppose this hyperfeminine way of displaying womanhood. It’s one reason I really gravitated to the all-black collection from F/W 2024.

Images c/o Pinterest

And what goes hand in hand with this is his blatant commitment to socially conscious topics such as sustainability and collaborating with activists speaking on themes of injustice, equality and environmentally conscious issues. For myself, all of these commitments speak to the person more so than the designer. I need to feel the humane essence in a designer, model or any other artist to feel connected to them. From his constant gratitude shown after the show by joining his atelier in appreciation, to his daily Instagram posts dedicated to his long-time partner and children and finally to his embrace of individualistic beauty that extends beyond a pretty face or perfect body. These are things that I find so rare in designers today. You could say that I love Rick Owens, and I do, or even Ann Demeulemeester, who’s my favorite, yet designers like Pierpaolo Piccioli and Vivienne Westwood bring the acute rare talent of connecting with their admirers beyond the clothing, beyond the runway and that’s what makes them great, icons even in my personal opinion.